Pattern Review: Peppermint Spring Shorts

It’s about time I’ve reviewed the Peppermint Spring Shorts because they are my favorite and most frequently worn shorts sewing pattern! The funny thing is, I’ve never actually made them as intended, with the paperbag waist and drawstring, but have always modified the waistband to fit 2″ wide elastic instead. In this post, I’ll be sharing all the versions I’ve made, my thoughts on the pattern and how I alter the waistband – it’s really easy!

I made my first Peppermint Spring Shorts in 2022 and they pair perfectly with my Laurence Tops (photo below). This is a fairly easy sewing pattern and it’s pay-what-you-can, which is great if you are just starting out sewing your own clothes or need to stick to a budget.

The Pattern

The Spring Shorts by Peppermint feature an elastic waistband with a paperbag waist and drawstring option. The curved hem is one of my favorite features which I think is so flattering (I think they make my legs look longer!) and they have an overall slimmer look but still have wearing ease.

I have been using the same printed pattern since 2022, when I first made the Peppermint Spring Shorts, and when I went to look up the pattern details on Peppermint Magazine’s website, I was happy to find that they have updated the sizing and expanded the size range – hooray! (Pattern was updated October 2024). Previously, they only came in 5 sizes but now there are 16 sizes to choose from! In the old version, it was pretty challenging to pick a size, but now it’s much easier to make an informed decision on what size to make, especially since there is now a Finished Garment Measurements chart.

You can also print just the size(s) you need which is also an improvement from the old pattern. Note: This wasn’t working for me at first so I wrote to Peppermint to ask about it and they fixed the issue right away! But only after I had already printed every size which you’ll notice in my photos. 🙂

The Fit

I really love the fit of the Peppermint Spring Shorts on me! They are a slimmer style of shorts, but not restrictive, with a comfortable high waist. On me, the waistband sits at my natural waist with the top edge about 1″ (2.5 cm) above my belly button. I also like the inseam length – 4″ (10 cm) in sizes A-H and 5″ (12.6 cm) in sizes I-P – not too short and not too long. (For reference, I am 5’3″ with a shorter torso and short legs).

After printing the new Peppermint Spring Shorts pattern, I overlaid my old pattern piece over top to see what new size it corresponds with (photo below). In the old version, I’ve always made a size 10 which now corresponds with a size C on the new size chart. Even though I can comfortably wear all my pairs of shorts, I decided to try a different size to see how I would like a little more ease.

I typically prefer less ease in my shorts, but you may like more! I suggest comparing your recommended size in the size chart to the finished measurements chart to help you decide what size to make. And make sure to check that the stretched waist measurement will fit over your hips when you go to pull them on.

According to the new size chart, I fall in between a size E and F (waist-29.5″, hip-39.5″). With the help of the finished garment measurements chart, I decided to try a size D, one size up from the size I usually make, for about 4″ of ease at the hip. The finished fit is great with a very subtle increase in overall ease. I notice the extra room more at the front rise, which is nice since that’s an area that fluctuates the most for me. 🙂 I think I will make a size D from now on!

The slanted front pockets could be a tiny bit deeper and wider so I might try altering them in the future. Back pockets are not included, but I have added them on some pairs using a pocket piece from a different pattern (read more below in the Modifications section).

Fabric

The pattern recommends light weight to medium weight fabrics that drape well such as cotton, chambray, linen, or cotton linen blends. My favorite fabric for these shorts has to be washed hemp, which I’ve used for 3 pairs of Spring Shorts (and also what Peppermint used for their sample).

I originally purchased washed hemp fabric from Blackbird Fabrics, but they no longer have it in stock. However, Lyrical Fabrics has a great selection with many lovely colors to choose from! Hemp has a similar feel to linen, but with a bit more structure and durability which is great for a pair of shorts. I also love how hemp wears in and softens over time.

Linen is also a wonderful choice because of the cooling properties and soft drape. Both of the gingham pairs I’m wearing below were made in a buttery soft washed linen from Blackbird Fabrics. The natural linen pair were made from a thrifted dress in a perfect midweight/heavyweight linen that makes them totally opaque!

I’ve also made a pair in this super cute Forest Forage Daisies cotton by Fableism. These feel the “stiffest” of all my pairs and I would probably size up if I used this fabric again. After wearing them throughout the day the fabric does relax, but I tend to favor the comfortable drape of my linen and hemp pairs. 🙂

Modifications

If you like the paperbag waist then go for it! Keep on reading, to see how I modify the waistband to fit 2″ elastic – it’s super simple!

Modify The Waistband & Skip Drawstring

After cutting out the waistband piece to the size you’ve chosen, you’ll need to measure out 5″ (12.7 cm) of width on the waistband to fit 2″ wide elastic (see photo below).

The waistband is eventually folded in half, which then makes it 2 1/2″ (6.3 cm) wide, and leaves 1/2″ (1.3 cm) left once the waistband is in. The seam allowance is 3/8″ (1 cm) throughout the pattern, so there’s just enough wiggle room for the elastic in the waistband. Note: This makes for a snug fit for the elastic so if you want a little more room I would add 1/4″ (0.6 cm) or so.

All I do then is fold back the waistband along that line! Don’t forget to transfer the notches to help when attaching the waistband later.

Skip the paperbag waist steps in the instructions (Step 12) and otherwise attach the waistband as instructed. I also skip the drawstring steps, but you could totally add one if you wanted! Although, if you’re skipping the paperbag waist, you may want to raise the buttonholes higher than what is written.

Add Back Pockets

Another small mod I make is to add back pockets! I haven’t done this to every pair, usually only if I have enough fabric. I like to use the pattern piece from the Anna Allen Pomona Pants or you could draft your own made to whatever size you want.

I usually pin the pockets on after the elastic is in so I can try them on. It’s a little harder to do it this way but I like being able to check the placement before sewing them on.

Sewing Process

The sewing process is pretty straightforward and the instructions are pretty clear and direct. They are also short, only 4 pages, so if you’re a total beginner, you may wish they expanded more on some steps.

Waistband

The method used in the pattern is very easy, so it’s great for beginners, but I insert the waistband a little differently than the instructions to make a neater finish on the inside.

After sewing the waistband pieces together and pressing the seams open, I fold the waistband in half longways and press in one long edge towards the wrong side 3/8″ (1 cm) to help me out later.

Like the instructions say, I pin the waistband (the unpressed side) to the top of the shorts matching side seams and sew. But then I place the pre-pressed edge over the stitch line and stitch-in-the-ditch from the right side leaving an opening for the elastic (see photos below).

There are are several ways to sew in a waistband, and this is just one method that I like, so please do whatever way you like best! 🙂 I then insert the elastic and adjust it to the width I like. I typically make my elastic looser than I think because they can sometimes shrink a bit in the wash.

Hem Facings

Since the hem of the Peppermint Spring Shorts are curved, they use hem facings to achieve a neat curve and smooth transition at the side seam.

This might be a more tricker step, but really only because it’s easy to get them mixed up, especially if you’re using a fabric with no right or wrong side. What I like to do is, after mirroring the pieces, I put a piece of tape to mark the “right sides” to make it clear which sides need to be sewn together.

Sometimes I will fold and press the raw edge under before sewing it down, instead of just leaving the finished edge. I fold it under about 1/4″ (0.6cm), use lots of pins and then sew close to the edge.

On a lot of pairs I’ve made, I have just serged the raw edge like the instructions say (shown below).

If you wanted to skip the curved hem entirely, I’m sure it would be easy to hack into a straight hem. I assume you could just extend the side seams down to where the inseam is and draw a straight line. I’ve never tried this, but would be curious to see if I liked how they look!

I used the leftover fabric to make a matching scrunchie! See my How to Sew a Scrunchie tutorial to make your own with all your fabric scraps. 🙂

Final Thoughts

I’m very happy with my newest Peppermint Spring Shorts and thrilled about the updated pattern with the new size options. It almost feels like a got a new pattern! These shorts really are a staple in my closet, especially to get me through Texas summers. I hope reading through my review was helpful and if you plan on making your own I hope they work well for you too!