Pattern Review: Rue Quilt Coat by Spaghetti Western Sewing

wearing a beige quilted coat showing the side view of the sleeve and high curved split hem

It felt so good to finish this project after spending many hours planning it in my head and then sewing it! The Rue Quilt Coat is a new quilt coat pattern by Spaghetti Western Sewing designed specifically for self-quilted and pre-quilted fabrics. In this pattern review I will share what size and modifications I made, list out what fabric and supplies I used, and share a little of the the quilting and bias binding process.

wearing a beige quilt coat and a green dress standing in a field

I chose to quilt my own fabric, but this pattern would work perfectly for an upcycle project using thrifted quilts or blankets. The squishy quilted texture of this coat is amazing and it’s the coziest garment I’ve made! Someday I would love to make a quilted patchwork version similar to my quilted Daphne Jacket with the scrap fabric I’ve accumulated since then.

The Pattern

wearing a beige quilt coat with brown collar standing in front of a white wall smiling

The pattern is the Rue Quilt Coat by Spaghetti Western Sewing and like the name suggests is designed for quilted fabrics. I was part of the testing group and really enjoyed the whole process – time consuming, but so worth it! This is my own experience with the process and mods I made during the testing process.

Since the pattern has now been released, a few minor changes were made so keep that in mind as you read through my notes! The sleeves have been shortened slightly, the sleeve circumference made a tad smaller and the collar adjusted (but you probably won’t notice a difference) and the instructions clarified on certain steps.

The most unique features of this coat are the dramatic split hem and the “retro-inspired” oversized collar. Extra ease is built into the design for a relaxed fit and there are a couple of different closure options suggested in the pattern.

wearing the Rue Quilt Coat  showing the side view of the coat standing in a field with one hand at the forehead

Since the pattern is designed with quilted fabric in mind – quilting your own is encouraged – there are a lot of helpful tips included for quilting your own fabric and making and attaching your own double fold bias tape.

My two tutorials How to Make Bias Binding and How to Sew Double Fold Bias Tape are great companions for this pattern if you need an extra visual for those steps!

sizing

Spaghetti Western Patterns are size inclusive with a unique sizing format but may not correlate with your standard size. Like I mentioned before, the coat has generous ease so you may comfortably fit into two different sizes. Make sure to check the finished garment measurements chart carefully to help pick which size to make.

I made a size 2XS which was where I landed on the size chart for a bust measurement of 34″ (86 cm) and I’m very happy with the fit on me. It’s roomy without feeling too big, the drop shoulder seams hits at a good spot for me, and the length is great for me.

closeup of the Rue Quilt Coat front showing the collar and buttons

The neck opening intentionally has more ease so the wearer can comfortably button it up all the way. However, for me, the neck opening feels a little too big for me even when buttoned all the way. Although when I’m wearing a chunky knit sweater, I’m grateful for the extra ease. Next time, I still may experiment with making the circumference a bit smaller (unless the designer makes changes to this area – I will note if they do).

instructions

The instructions are intended to be read digitally and have colorful illustrations and icons to help you navigate the pattern more easily. Tips and ideas are scattered throughout and the steps are thoughtfully laid out with an efficient workflow in mind. Whether you choose to quilt your own or use pre-quilted fabric, the instructions walk you through those steps.

The Fabric

wearing a beige quilt coat over a green dress showing the side split hem with one arm raised up

I chose to quilt my own fabric which was definitely the most time consuming part but quilting with organic wavy lines made the process seem less monotonous.

My outer fabric is a mid weight linen wool herringbone twill fabric from The Linen Lab (use the code BETHANYLYNNE_MAKES for 10% off your order) which makes this coat extra warm and cozy.

The inside fabric is a brown/black gingham cotton flannel from Fluid + Drape that makes the inside so soft and was the perfect compliment to the outer fabric.

a light brown quilted coat laying on a table with a closeup of the bias bound edges

In between there’s a layer of batting that has a slightly higher loft than what I used for my quilted Daphne Jacket. This made the layers a little thicker to work with, but still very manageable – and extra squishy!

I wanted to make this coat reversible but didn’t want contrasting bias binding for the inside seams, so I used the same cotton flannel fabric to match. The outer bias binding and the collar are made in a linen leftover from another project.

Supplies Used

the quilted fabric cut out and laid on the pattern pieces for the quilt coat laying next to a package of batting

This page contains some affiliate links to products and I may receive a small commission for purchases made through these links (at no extra cost to you).

Below is a list of the supplies I needed to help with the quilting process of this coat.

Modifications

closeup of the cuffed sleeve of the quilted jacket with a beige outer fabric and a brown gingham lining fabric

The only modification I made was the shorten the sleeve length 2″. The sleeves are designed to be cuffed but once I got to the sleeve step, I found I had way more length than needed to cuff the sleeves.

closeup of the side seam of the Rue Quilt Coat in a brown gingham quilted fabric

This may be more considered personal preference than a mod, but when I was finishing the inside seams with bias tape, I sewed the bias tape down flat. Since my coat is reversible, I wanted the inside seams to lay flat instead of sticking up when it’s worn on the outside. I talk a little bit more about how I did this in the Bias Binding section (scroll down).

the process

a scrap piece of beige quilted fabric laying next to several strips of bias tape in various colors of fabric

While I didn’t document every step, I’ll be sharing the highlights and a few tips that helped me through the process. The way that the Rue Quilt Coat is assembled is pretty much what I did for my quilted Daphne Jacket and I applied many of the same techniques from that experience.

I did a few test swatches to figure out what I wanted my quilting lines to look like and took some time to test out what color bias binding I wanted to use.

Prewash fabric

Pre-washing your fabric before starting is pretty important, because there can be some shrinkage after quilting and assembling the coat. The pattern instructions suggest washing your quilted fabric (if you quilted your own) again before cutting out the pattern pieces.

This also gives a good idea of what the texture of your quilted fabric will look like after washing/drying. I did not do this however, and went straight to cutting out the pieces after quilting my fabric.

Basting (aka Quilt Sandwich)

the front pattern piece laid out on the main outer fabric ready to cut around it

Before making my quilt sandwich, I laid the pattern pieces out on my fabric, making sure to line up with the grainline of my fabric, and cut rectangles with plenty of extra space around the pattern shape. I did not measure, however there are helpful measurements included in the pattern instructions for this step.

I then cut out the same size rectangle in my lining fabric and batting (I just used the first piece I cut as a guide to cut around). Do this for all the pattern pieces – Front, Back, both sleeves, and collar.

Then it’s time to layer your fabric, or called “basting” in the quilting world, in the following order: 

  • Place your backing fabric right side down
  • Batting layer goes in the middle
  • Quilt top pieces (or main fabric) right side up

I found it really helpful to secure the lining layer (right side down) with masking tape after smoothing it out. This made sure it wasn’t wrinkling or moving around while I was pinning (see photo above). I pinned all the layers together using curved safety pins starting in the middle and working towards the edges while keeping smoothing out the fabric as I went.

Quilting the Layers Together

showing the quilting step in progress with curvy stitched lines in the fabric

After all the layer are pinned, it’s time to quilt! Since I was quilting organic wavy lines I didn’t need to draw anything out first. Although, every so often, I stitched a somewhat straight line to help keep the lines from going too far off the grainline (I used the herringbone pattern to my advantage and used those lines as a guide). It was a very freeing way of quilting and I really enjoyed not having to follow straight line or a specific pattern. 🙂

closeup of the quilting lines on the Rue Quilt Coat showing the front and back fabric

When quilting I recommend using a walking foot which helps to evenly feed the layers of fabric and batting through the machine.

When I did my test swatches I also planned out the stitch length and thread color. I wanted my thread to match both the outer and lining fabric, so I used a different thread color in my bobbin and adjusted the tension on my machine to get it looking even on both sides.

Cut out Pattern Pieces / Sew Together

showing the inside brown gingham side of the quilt coat  with one pocket pinned in place

After every piece was quilted (4 total) then I cut out out the pattern pieces! From here on it’s pretty straightforward and I just followed the steps to assemble the coat.

I skipped around the instructions a bit and waited until the very end to place the pockets. I wanted two pockets on the inside of the coat so I first marked the placement of the outer pockets before sewing on the inside pockets.

For the collar, I only quilted one side and left the under collar as a single layer of linen (per the instructions). I wish I had quilted both the outer and under collar to give it more structure even though it would potentially make it tricker to attach with the added bulk.

Bias Binding

The pattern calls for 1/2″ (12mm) double fold bias tape to enclose all of the raw edges and seams which can be a fun element to play with pops of color or a fun patterned fabric. You can use premade double fold bias tape or choose to make your own – I prefer to make my own so I can make just as much as a need in the colors/patterns I want.

There are great instructions included in the pattern for making your own bias tape, but if you need an extra visual check out my tutorial How to Make Bias Binding Tape.

The double fold bias binding is attached as you work through the pattern with the center front and hem binding attached first. Each inside seam is finished with bias binding after sewing the coat pieces together. An extra step I did was to sew the bias tape down flat which made the process a little longer but I’m so happy with the results.

You can read more about how I did this in my tutorial How to Sew Double Fold Bias Tape, but essentially what I did was after attaching the bias tape, I stitched the other edge of the bias tape down. This also meant that the stitch line showed on the reverse side (right side) so I used two different colors of thread to match the corresponding fabric. The only spot where I couldn’t quite get was right at the underarm because of all the bulk there so I sewed as far as I could get to the underarm, backstitched and just left the rest of the bias binding to stick up.

Button Closure

closeup shot of the buttoned front beige quilt coat

There are a few different closure methods suggested in the pattern – snaps, fabric ties or buttons. I chose to use buttons since that’s what I had on hand, but I would love to try snaps on a future quilt coat.

To make the coat fully reversible I sewed two buttons at the same time – just held the top and bottom button in place and sewed like I typically sew one button. This was the first time I tried this and I figured out that I couldn’t pull the thread too tight or else I couldn’t get the button through the buttonhole on either side.

I had no problem sewing the buttonholes with my machine’s automatic buttonhole stitch and even used two different threads to match each side of the coat. It took quite a lot of testing to get the tension right so that only one thread color showed on each side, but I’m glad I took the extra time.

Final Wash

the finished coat laying on the bed before the final wash

After the whole coat was assembled and finished it was time to wash it! This is probably my favorite part about making quilts or quilt coats because I love to see how washing and drying adds that extra texture. (The picture above shows the coat right before washing/drying)

Since I had pre-washed all my fabric, I wasn’t worried too much about dramatic shrinkage. I knew there would be a little shrinking and settling in of all the seams, but there was the perfect amount in this case.

Final Thoughts

If you’re looking for a quilt coat pattern then I would highly suggest giving the Rue Quilt Coat a try! The designer put a lot of thought into the design and worked hard to make the pattern inclusive and user friendly. Making a quilt coat is not a quick project but is so rewarding when it’s all finished and hopefully one that is cherished for years!

I hope that my notes were helpful to read whether you make this exact quilt coat pattern or not! Happy sewing! 🙂

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