One of my favorite things about sewing dresses is getting to add pockets! If you’ve ever made a sewing pattern that didn’t have pockets included, it’s easy to add them yourself! In this tutorial I will show two ways to sew inseam pockets (also called side seam pockets) on a skirt or dress, but this method will work on basically any pattern with side seams – dress, skirt, pants or even a jacket!
I added inseam pockets into a two tiered elastic waistband skirt using the same techniques from this article. I walk through the steps in my tutorial How to Sew a Skirt With An Elastic Waistband if you’re curious to check it out!
Some Things You’ll Need
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- Fabric scissors
- Pins
- Pin holder – this is the same one I use
- Coordinating all purpose thread
Pocket Pattern Piece
I’m using the pocket piece from the Orchards Dress by Vivian Shao Chen (so I can’t share this specific pocket piece with you) which I use all the time as my pocket template. I even use it with other patterns even when pockets are included 🙂
Soften Studio has a free pocket pattern template that has a similar shape to the one I’m using. You could also try drawing your own and even make it bigger or smaller depending on your preference.
Here’s a Table of Contents if you want to skip around to certain steps or methods.
Method 1
This method is a great basic way to add inseam pockets to a garment. If i’m adding pockets into a pattern that doesn’t have them, I will almost always use this method.
Step 1: Cut Out Pocket Pieces
You’ll need 4 pocket pieces total and if you’re using fabric with a distinct wrong and right side, then you’ll need a mirrored pair. Pockets don’t take up a lot of fabric, so you can either use contrasting scrap fabric, or use the same as your main fabric – it’s up to you!
Step 2: Decide Pocket Placement
With right sides together, place the pockets at the top of the skirt panels at your preferred distance from the top. The height of your pockets also depends on where the skirt is going to sit on your body.
You can hold up your skirt panel to your body and put it roughly where the gathered skirt will start and place your hand where a pocket would feel comfortable. Mark the distance from the top of the pocket to the top of the skirt, measure and make sure all the pockets are at the same spot. Don’t forget to account for seam allowance at the top of the skirt panel!
The pockets in my example are placed 4″ from the top and the gathered skirt is slightly above my natural waist.
Pin the pockets right sides together onto one skirt panel with the straight side of the pocket along the side of the skirt (the curved part of the pocket should be facing in towards the center of the skirt). Repeat on the second skirt panel.
Step 3: Sew Pockets To Side Seam
Sew pockets (all four) to the side seam at 1/2″ seam allowance. Then, finish the edge with a serger or zig-zag stitch a couple of inches past the top and bottom of the pockets.
Step 4: Understitch
Turn over the pockets out to the side (as shown below) and press the seams towards the pockets.
Understitch close to the edge through all fabric layers, making sure to catch the seam allowance underneath that you just pressed.
Step 5: Sew Side Seams
Take your skirt panels with all your pockets now attached and place them right sides together. Place pins at the top of the skirt, pin all around the outside of the pocket, and down to the hem of the skirt. Make sure the top and bottom of the pockets are lined up and pinned at those intersections.
Start at the top of the skirt and sew all around the outside at 1/2″ seam allowance.
When you come to the top of the pocket, make sure you sew past the understitch line and then pivot. At the bottom, do the same and sew just past the understitched line before pivoting and continuing to sew down to the hem (see photos below). This helps to get a nice invisible pocket opening from the right side.
Repeat on the other side seam of the skirt. Check that everything looks looks ok from the right side and test out your pockets!
Step 6: Finish The Side Seams
If everything looks good then finish the side seams with a serger or zig-zag stitch. Press both side seams and pocket towards the same side which will then become the front of your skirt.
Your pockets are done!
Method 2
This method is very similar to the first method, but just done in a slightly different order. In this method, I like how most of the seam finishing is done up front and the side seams can be pressed open to lessen bulky seams.
Step 1: Cut Out Pocket Pieces
Cut out 4 pocket pieces total and if you’re using fabric with a distinct wrong and right side, then make sure to cut a mirrored pair.
Step 2: Decide Pocket Placement
Decide on your desired pocket placement. This depends a lot on the type of garment you’re making and where the waist will sit on your body.
In my example, I’m adding these pockets to a elastic waist gathered skirt with a short top tier, so I needed to mark the placement of the elastic channel at the top and make sure the pockets weren’t running into the seam allowance at the bottom of the tier.
(I share all the details of this skirt in my Elastic Waist Gathered Skirt Tutorial.)
Step 3: Finish Curved Edges Of Pockets
Then, before pinning the pockets to the skirt, finish the curved edges of all the pocket pieces. This saves you from having to do it later and trying to navigate the serger around the corners of the pockets.
Step 4: Sew Pockets To Side Seams
Place the pockets right sides together to the skirt panels and sew the pockets in place (i’m using a 3/8″ seam allowance in my example).
Step 5: Finish Side Seams
Finish each side seam separately (with pockets attached).
Step 6: Understitch
Turn over the pockets out to the side (as shown below) and press the seams towards the pockets. Understitch close to the edge through all fabric layers, making sure to catch the seam allowance underneath that you just pressed.
Step 7: Sew Side Seams
Place skirt panels, with pockets attached, right sides together. Pin together, making sure to line up the top and bottom of the pocket pieces.
Starting at the top of the side seam, sew the skirt panels and pockets together with your desired seam allowance (I’m using a 3/8″ seam allowance in my example).
When you come to the top of the pocket, make sure you sew past the understitch line and then pivot. At the bottom, do the same and sew just past the understitched line before pivoting and continuing to sew down to the hem (see photos below). This helps to get a nice invisible pocket opening from the right side.
Step 8: Press Side Seams
Now, since you’ve finished the side seams separately, you can press the side seams open above and below the pocket. Press the pockets towards the front of the skirt.
And you’re done! If you’re making a short top tier like in my example, it will look a little funny with the pocket sticking out at the bottom, but will all work out once the second tier is sewn on. 🙂
If you’re attaching a skirt to a bodice then head over to my tutorial How to Sew a Gathered Skirt to a Bodice to follow the next steps. Or if you’re making a two tiered skirt, my tutorial How to Sew a Skirt With an Elastic Waistband goes through how to add the second skirt tier.
Thanks for following along! Happy sewing and pocket making 🙂
