I had never thought of sewing half circle blocks until I wanted to add a scalloped border to this wall hanging I made – look how cute it turned out! I almost wish I had used a solid color to help the scalloped border pop, but this black floral fabric was really calling to me. Sewing curves can be tricky, but they just take practice! If you’ve ever sewn a garment with a set-in sleeve, sewing these half circle blocks reminds me of that – just on a much smaller scale.
In this tutorial I walk through my process of making this scalloped border, how to make a half circle template and tips for sewing curves together.

I was very inspired by Farm and Folk’s sampler quilt with a gorgeous scalloped border, so I set out to learn how to make one myself. This tutorial by Simple Geometric Quilting was very helpful but did not go into detail on how to add seam allowance to the template. In this tutorial I walk through adding the seam allowance so you don’t need to figure it out yourself!
Sewing half circles takes practice and even after sewing the 20 half circle blocks for this wall hanging, they still didn’t end up perfect. I’m accepting the wonkiness as it gives handmade character to this piece. I used a very lightweight cotton designed for apparel and I think that made the half circles a bit harder to work with. My half circle blocks turned out much better when I used quilting cotton for my example in this tutorial.

If you want to make a wall hanging like my example (or even a quilt!) head over to my review of my Hurry Home x Rue Quilt Coat where I go through all the details of the blocks needed. Then head back here for the scalloped border tutorial 🙂
I finished up this wall hanging with some scrap gingham linen for the backing, some simple hand quilting stitches, and a subtle striped linen border. I love how it turned out and the coziness it adds to this wall in my sewing room.


Some Things You’ll Need
- Card stock or regular paper
- Sharp pencil
- Ruler – I found this set of 3 rulers really helpful when making my template.
- Paper cutting scissors
- Quilting ruler
- Fabric – quilting cotton works best
- Fabric scissors
- Rotary blade and cutting mat
- Fabric marking tool
- Pins – I really like these Clover Patchwork Pins for piecing.
- Coordinating all purpose thread
Here’s a quick reel over on Instagram showing the process of how I made the scalloped border:
Let’s get started!
Step 1: Make The Half Circle Template
To start, we need to make the half circle template pieces. It isn’t hard, but just takes a little planning up front and some measuring. These can be customized to whatever size you need.

I used leftover fabric from my Hurry Home Rue Quilt Coat and I wanted the half circle to be the same width as the blocks when sewn together, so that it looked like a scalloped edge when done.
Start with the finished width, the size after sewing together, that you want your half circle to be – so for me, that was 4.5″ (the unfinished size of each square is 5″). I started with a 6″ square so that I had extra space on each side for when I trim the finished half circle blocks later.
Draw a square your desired size on card stock or regular paper and then cut it out.


Mark a line in the center of the square.


Take your desired half circle width and divide that in half. The width of my half circles is 4.5″, so half of that is 2.25″. From the center line, measure out that distance (2.25″) on either side and draw a line.

At the bottom, draw a line across to mark the seam allowance (1/4″).


To mark the height, measure up 2.25″ or half of the width of your half circle, starting from the seam allowance line. Note: You could experiment with this if you wanted to get a different arch shape, taller or shorter, but a more gradual arch will be easier to sew.

Next, figure out how high you want your finished half circle block to be, and how much space you want at the top of the arch. I made mine 3.25″ high, but wish I had made mine a little bit higher. Mark that on your paper, measuring from the bottom edge and making sure to account for seam allowance.


Drawing The Arch
It’s time to draw the arch! From the bottom of the center line, starting at the seam allowance line, make dots or dashed lines 2.25″ away, or the same measurement as the height of your half circle. I found a seam gauge was helpful for this.





Then do the same on the other side of the arch.


Then, draw in the arch by connecting the dashed marks you made.



Make any last adjustments to the height of your template, and then cut off the extra paper along the line.

You’re almost done with the template! Next, cut out along the arch line and keep both of these pieces.


Adding Seam Allowance
This part may seem a little redundant, but now you need to use the template you just made to make another template. It’s important though, because you’ll be adding in the seam allowance so that the pieces will fit together nicely when sewing.
Take the half circle piece you cut out and trace around it on another piece of paper.


With a seam gauge or ruler, mark out the 1/4″ seam allowance along the outside of the half circle curve making dots or dashed marks. Draw along the dashed lines to make a curve.




Cut out along the line you just drew and this is your final half circle template. I suggest labeling it so you know that this is the one with the seam allowance added.


Now take the other template you made (I’m calling it the “background arch” piece) and trace around it onto a piece of paper.



In the same way as the half circle piece, mark the 1/4″ seam allowance along the inside of the curve with dashed lines. Draw the curve in by connecting the dashed lines.




Cut out along that line you just drew and the rest of the background arch piece. You now have your final template with seam allowance added!


Step 2: Trace Template And Cut From Fabric
Now it’s time to trace the templates on to your chosen fabric! Be mindful that you’re cutting with your fabric on grain to keep the pieces from stretching out.
For the background arch pieces, I find it helpful to first cut a rectangle the exact dimensions of the background arch (for me it was 6″ x 3.25″), and then cut out the arch in the middle.


You can cut out the arch with a rotary blade or you may find it easier to trace it first and then cut with fabric scissors.




Next, cut out the half circle shape from your chosen fabric. I used a rotary blade but you could also trace the template onto the fabric first.


Now you’re ready to sew!

Step 3: Time To Sew
Now, the trickiest part is sewing these pieces together. They seem like they’re not going to fit together and you have to ease them in as you go, but it is possible!
Start by finding the middle of both the half circle and background arch pieces – I just do this by finger pressing.




With right sides together, line up the center marks of the half circle and background arch pieces as shown below and place a pin.

Then, rotate one end of the half circle piece to meet the corresponding end of the background arch piece as shown below. The straight edges should be flush with each other. Place a pin. Repeat at the other end.



Your pieces should look something like this now. See photo below.

Now, place some pins halfway between the other pins. This is where you will need to do a bit of easing in to get the curved edges lined up with each other. You can place more pins than this if you want to – it will make sewing a little easier too.


Before you start to sew, make sure the straight edges at the end are lined up well. This will help to make a straight edge at the bottom of the finished half circle block.
Sew around the curved edge with 1/4″ seam allowance, with the half circle piece facing up. It helps to sew a little way, sink the needle and readjust the fabric as needed, then continue sewing a bit more. I find it helpful to curve the pieces up with my fingers to help guide them together (3rd picture below).




Open it up and check out your half circle block! If you have any puckers, you can go back and unpick a little and try and ease them back together smoothly.

Step 4: Press Seams
Before pressing the seams, make several little snips into the seam allowance making sure not to cut through your stitches. This really helps the curved seam lay flat!


Press the seam up toward the background arch piece or open. I chose to press them open so the seams were less bulky when sewing the finished blocks to each other. Try not to stretch your pieces at all, and just press without moving the ironing around.



Step 5: Trim Half Circle Blocks
Remember how I left a bit extra at each side of my template? Now it’s time to trim the blocks down to the right measurement. I’m cutting my blocks down to 5″ (the unfinished size of the blocks in my wall hanging).
The goal is to try and trim the same amount from each side, leaving about 1/4″ space (or even a scant 1/4″) on either side of the ends of the curved line.



I also squared up the bottom edge a little to straighten it up and double check that the height is measuring right at 3.25″.

Now you have your finished half circle block!


Step 6: Sew Half Circle Blocks Together
If you’re using your half circle blocks for a scalloped border, it’s time to sew them together!
Place two half circle blocks right sides together, making sure to line up the seams at the end.



Place a few pins along the edge.

Sew with 1/4″ seam allowance. At the end, where the curved ends meet, try and have your stitching go right through the seam or just to the left of it. If you sew just to the left of the seams, then your scallop curves will look more seamless.



Press the seams open (or to the side) and repeat for the other half circle blocks.

Now you have a cute scalloped border!

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and would love to hear if you try it! Thanks for reading 🙂
Happy sewing!





