The Pearl Pouch is a great whatever-you-need-it-to-be type of pouch! This simple boxy zipper pouch can be used as a makeup bag, knitting or crochet project bag, sewing notions pouch, pencil pouch or use it in a bigger bag to stay organized. The boxy shape of this zipper pouch means it can fit quite a bit and it’s fully lined so that pockets can be added for even more organizing options.
The Pearl Pouch is an easy boxy zipper pouch pattern with measurements included to make it in 3 different sizes, plus a tutorial that walks you through each step. If you’ve never worked with zippers before, then the pictures and detailed instructions should make it easier for you!
You can choose to follow the step-by-step tutorial below or I’ll send the free PDF version when you sign up for my newsletter (sign up here!). I promise I won’t spam you and the emails will be pretty infrequent – maybe 1 or 2 per month. I’ll mainly just keep you updated when new patterns or blog tutorials are released, pattern tester call-outs, and a little bit of behind-the-scenes. 🙂
Since this pattern is so easily customizable, it works great for patchwork! I made the patchwork Pearl Pouch below with just one mini 2.5″ charm pack (42 squares) by making two panels of 20 squares each. I quilted a layer of batting to the outside before assembling to add some structure. The fabric for the pouch shown below is The Henhouse by Gingiber for Moda Fabrics and I found the mini charm pack at Fat Quarter Shop (affiliate link).
The sewing construction of the Pearl Pouch is very similar to my Edgewood Sling Bag but without a strap added! You can find all my other sewing (and crochet) PDF patterns in my shop. If you want to practice sewing with zippers, my lined zipper pouch is an easy place to start! And my Charley Charm Tote is another free pattern/tutorial that will get you started with quilting (or you can also make a solid fabric version).
Some Things You’ll Need
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- Fabric for main and lining – See chart below for fabric amount needed.
- Zippers – I like to use continuous zippers (like these from Wawak) for the main opening and then fixed length zippers for the lining zipper pocket.
– 8” nylon zipper – Small pouch
– 11” nylon zipper – Medium pouch
– 14” nylon zipper – Large pouch
– 5” nylon zipper (for lining zipper pocket) – Small pouch
– 7” nylon zipper (for lining zipper pocket) – Medium and Large pouch - Zipper foot
- Pins or Wonder Clips
- Fabric scissors
- Coordinating all purpose thread
- Topstitching thread (optional) – Gutermann Mara 70 is my favorite for topstitching.
- Fusible interfacing (optional) – I use SF101 interfacing for pretty much everything!
Fabric Requirements
I find that midweight to heavier weight fabrics like canvas, denim or pre-quilted fabrics worked best with this pouch to give it structure. The chart below is assuming that you’re working with directional fabric and cutting all pieces with the same grainline. However, if you’re working with a non-directional woven fabric, you can use less than shown if you cut some pieces on the crossgrain.
Pattern Notes
Using fusible interfacing is an option if you want to add more structure to your bag or you can also quilt a layer of batting to the main pieces for a quilty texture. In the Pearl Pouches shown below, the brown floral one is an 8.5 oz twill with a softer draper so I added interfacing to give it stability. For the small denim pouch I quilted a layer of batting to the main pieces with simple quilt lines. The olive green and cream floral ones are both a heavy 12oz canvas and needed no additional structure.
The Pearl Pouch uses 3/8″ (1 cm) seam allowance throughout unless otherwise mentioned.
In my example I am making the large size pouch, but the steps apply for each size.
If you want to add a zippered pocket and slip pockets to the lining of your Pearl Pouch, you may want to have my How to Sew a Zippered Pocket and How to Sew a Slip Pocket tutorials open in separate tabs along with this one. To keep this tutorial somewhat short I’m not going through those steps in detail but I will share important measurements you’ll need for each pouch size.
Let’s get started!
Step 1: Cut Out Main & Lining Panels
From your chosen main and lining fabric, cut out rectangles according to the chart below for the size(s) you’re making.
Optional: If using interfacing, fuse to wrong side of both Main pieces and/or both Lining pieces according to package directions.
Step 2: Lining Zipper Pocket
Like I mentioned above, I’m not going into detail here but head over to my How to Sew a Zippered Pocket tutorial for full instructions. To adjust the zipper pocket for each pouch size, I’m listing the important measurements for each size below.
On the right side of the lining, with a washable line, mark the middle line for each size as follows:
Small – 2 1/2″ (6.4 cm) from the top
Medium – 3″ (7.6 cm) from the top
Large – 3″ (7.6 cm) from the top
And then draw a line 1/4″ (0.6 cm) below and above that middle line. Close up a box by marking a vertical line at each end as follows:
Small – 2 1/2″ (6.4 cm) from the middle
Medium – 3 1/2″ (8.9 cm) from the middle
Large – 3 1/2″ (8.9 cm) from the middle
On the wrong side of the same lining panel, draw a line for where the pocket bag will be as follows:
Small – 1 1/2″ (3.8 cm) from the top
Medium – 2″ (5 cm) from the top
Large – 2″ (5 cm) from the top
Then the rest of the zipper pocket steps in the tutorial will apply for each size.
Step 3: Lining Slip Pocket
Head over to my tutorial How To Sew a Slip Pocket for full instructions, but specific measurements for each size are listed below.
Center and pin the slip pocket to the right side of the lining as follows:
Small – 2 1/2″ (6.4 cm) from the top
Medium – 3″ (7.6 cm) from the top
Large – 3″ (7.6 cm) from the top
On the large size, I split the pocket into 3 by drawing lines 4 1/5″ (11.4 cm) apart. This is up to you though and you can customize the pockets however you want.
Step 4: Prepare Main & Lining Panels
For all main and lining pieces, squares will be cut out at each corner – the smaller squares are at the top of the pouch where the zipper will be sewn and the bigger squares will form the boxy shape for the bottom of the pouch.
I like to place the two main panels and the two lining panels together when I cut out the squares to save a little time.
Decide which long edge will be the bottom of the pouch and draw a square at each corner:
Small – 1 1/2″ (3.8 cm) squares
Medium – 2″ (5 cm) squares
Large – 2 1/2″ (6.4 cm) squares
At the opposite long edge will be the top of the pouch, draw a square at each corner:
Small – 1″ (2.5 cm) squares
Medium – 1 1/4″ (3.2 cm) squares
Large – 1 1/4″ (3.2 cm) squares
After the squares are drawn, double check your measurements and then cut out the squares from each corner.
Repeat these steps for the lining panels, making sure that the pockets are positioned at the top of the panel (where the smaller square cut outs are).
Step 5: Sew The Zipper
Lay one main panel right side up with the smaller cut out corners at the top.
Note: If your zipper is longer you can cut it to length or just let it hang off the ends for now, but pin it so the metal stoppers are out of the way. If using a continuous zipper cut it to the length between the square cut outs. You will be attaching the zipper pull later on.
Place zipper right side down on top lined up at the upper edge between the cutout corners. I like to place a few pins here to secure the zipper it in place.
Place one lining panel right side down on top of the main panel (the zipper will be sandwiched in the middle) lining up edges at the top. Make sure the cut out corners are lined up at both ends. Pin (or you may want to use clips) in place.
Using a zipper foot, sew 3/8” (1 cm) from the edge. Note: If you’re using a narrower zipper, you may need to change your seam allowance to 1/4″ (0.6 cm).
Tip: Sometimes the lining fabric will want to bunch up at this step so using a pointy tool, like a seam ripper or small pair of scissors, can help prevent puckers. You can also sew this step in two separate passes if you prefer.
Move both the main and lining panels away from the zipper to prep for the next step.
Lay the remaining Main Panel right side up (small cutout corners at the top). Place the zipper on top, right side down (with the other main and lining pieces moved out of the way) and line it along the top edge.
Then place the remaining Lining Panel right side down on top, sandwiching the zipper in the middle and lining everything up at the top edge. Pin or clip everything in place and sew 3/8” (1 cm) from the edge.
This is what your panels should look like at this point!
Press the main and lining panels away from the zipper making sure to not melt your zipper. Tip: Pin the lining to the main fabric to help keep the lining from shifting or bunching up while sewing.
Topstitch close to the folded edge on either side of the zipper. Optional: You can use topstitching thread here if you’d like.
Attaching The Zipper Pull
Skip to the next step if you’re using a fixed zipper length.
If you’re using a continuous zipper, it’s time to attach the zipper pull. Pull apart the zipper a little bit at one end. With the curved side of the zipper pull facing the zipper teeth, place one side of the zipper teeth into the opening. Then guide the other side of the zipper teeth into the remaining zipper pull opening.
It sometimes takes a little wiggling to get the zipper teeth into the openings, but try to get the pull on evenly. You should be able to feel it “catch” the teeth when it’s on right. The pull the zipper pull down to the other side to open that end.
Tip: Something I realized after taking pictures for this tutorial, was that if you leave the teeth closed a little bit on the other side, it will make the next step a little easier. Shown below on the quilted blue denim version.
Step 6: Sew The Side Seams
Arrange the panels flat in front of you so that the main panels are right sides together and the lining panels are right sides together.
Pin or clip along the side seams in between the cut out corners. Sew along each side with a 3/8″ (1 cm) seam allowance.
Step 7: Sew The Boxed End Zipper
This step can be a little finicky, especially when working with heavy or bulky fabrics so I recommend taking your time and pin things in place as needed. We’re going to be working on the smaller top cut outs and closing up the ends of the zipper while forming the boxy shape.
Close the zipper almost all the way, but keep the zipper pull out of the way where you will be sewing. Lay out the panels flat with wrong sides facing like shown below.
At one top cut out corner where the zipper is, open up the corners and bring the lining side seam down to meet the middle of the zipper. Hold that in place and then bring the main side seam down to meet the middle of the zipper. Open up the seam allowances to lie flat.
It’s a little tricky to get everything lined up over the zipper, especially on the side where the zipper is open, but try to line up the side seams with the middle of the zipper teeth.
Flatten the edges of the panels so you’re making a sort of triangle shape like shown below. At the peak of the triangle shape, there will be a straight edge formed by the cut out corners. Pin or clip in place, and then sew along that straight edge with a 3/8″ (1 cm) seam allowance. You will be sewing through 4 layers of fabric and the zipper teeth. Backstitch at each end and sew slowly over the zipper.
Repeat these steps for the remaining corner. Turn the finished boxed end zipper right out to check that everything looks ok and test out the zipper.
Step 8: Sew The Bottom Seams
Open the zipper all the way for this step. With the main panels right sides together, pin the bottom seam in between the cut out corners and sew with a 3/8″ (1 cm) seam allowance.
Repeat on the lining side, but leave a 4″-6″ (10.2 to 15.2 cm) opening depending on the size of the pouch you’re making.
Open up one corner where you cut out a square, bring the side and bottom seams right sides together and line up the raw edges. Open the seams to lay flat. Pin the corners flat with pins or clips.
Sew along the straight edge with a 3/8″ (1 cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the remaining 3 corners.
Turn the bag right side out to check that everything looks ok before moving on.
Step 9: Attach Lining To Bottom Of Bag
To keep the lining attached to the bottom of the bag, turn bag inside out with lining facing out and the main side pushed into the lining).
Reach inside the opening in the lining and find the short end seam of the main outer bag (the boxed out corner seam). Line up the lining corner seam with the corresponding main corner seam.
Pin or clip in place and sew together within seam allowance. Repeat this step on the other side.
Now if you pull on the lining, it will stay secure at the bottom of the bag!
Step 10: Sew Opening In Lining
Sew the opening in the lining with an edgestitch or hand stitch with a slip stitch for an invisible finish.
Here’s a video for how to sew an invisible slip stitch if you need one:
Turn your pouch right side out, gently poke out the corners and that’s your Pearl Pouch done!
Hope you found this tutorial helpful! If you decide to share your finished bag on Instagram, use the hashtag #pearlpouch and tag me @bethanylynne_makes so I can see your beautiful bag!
Happy sewing!
