A rolled hem is a great option if you want a tiny hem on dress hems, gathered sleeve hems or collars with really delicate, lightweight fabrics. In this tutorial, I will be showing how to sew a rolled hem by hand (written and video) on a square scarf with just a needle and thread.
This technique works really well with lightweight fabrics like cotton voile, linen and silk. I was inspired by the hand rolled hems on the silk scarves I used for my patchwork silk scarf dress and wanted to try it for myself!
This is a great project for leftover fabric – especially those special fabrics that you’re not sure what to do with. Some other scrap busting projects are zipper pouches, fabric alphabet letters, scrunchies or my Edgewood Sling Bag pattern – a great intro into bag making!
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Some Things You’ll Need
- Coordinating all purpose thread
- Needle
- Lightweight fabric – cotton, linen or silk
- Fabric scissors – I’m using these small scissors in my example
Scarf With Hand Rolled Hem
To make the scarf in my example, it’s very simple – you just cut out a square! Square scarves can come in all sizes depending on if you want just a neck scarf or a scarf that can be wrapped around your neck twice.
I measured a scarf I already had and cut a square out of my fabric measuring 31″ x 31″ (79 x 79 cm). It can wrap around my neck twice, but snugly, so I like to just tie it once (see photo above).
I first measured out how big I wanted the scarf with my measuring tape and marked the fabric with a washable fabric marker. Then I drew along those markings and cut out my square!
The fabric I used for my scarf is a lightweight cotton voile from Lyrical Fabrics and I think it worked really well! Some other great options would be a lightweight linen or silk.
Video Tutorial
Below is the video tutorial or keep reading for the written tutorial with plenty of pictures to help you along!
Step 1: Trim Loose Threads
Start by trimming any loose threads along the edge where you will starting. You will most likely need to do this as you go around especially with fabric prone to fraying like linen or silk.
Step 2: Insert Needle Close to Edge
Thread your needle with a single thread and make a knot. Insert the needle 1/8″ (3 mm) from the raw edge and pull thread through making sure the knot holds.
Step 3: Fold Edge Over
Fold the edge of the fabric down towards the wrong side about 1/8″ (3mm) making sure that the thread you just pulled through is coming out right at the folded edge.
Step 4: Catch Fabric Below Fold
Then, bring the thread straight down and catch just a few threads of the fabric with the needle right below the raw edge. There will be one vertical stitch overlapping the folded edge of the fabric.
Step 5: Long Stitch In Fold
Next, you’re going to make a longer stitch in the folded edge of the fabric.
Bring the needle up to the fold and insert the needle into the “tunnel” of the folded edge, making sure the stitch is vertical, like the first stitch (make sure you’re not going through to the right side). Run the needle through the fold about 1/2″ (1.3 cm) or so before poking the needle out through the top of folded edge.
You will now have two vertical stitches close to each over and the thread will be coming out through the top of the folded edge.
Repeat steps 4 & 5 until you have made several stitches across the edge of the fabric. Depending on the project, you may need to do less, but for a scarf like the example, I repeat until I have about 6 or so sets of vertical stitches.
Step 6: Pull On Thread
Make sure you’ve just ended after a long stitch in the fold and the thread is coming from the top of the folded edge. Hold on to the edge (before the stitches just made) with one hand, and gently pull on the thread with your other hand so the fabric rolls over on itself. Run your hand along the stitches to release any extra tension and finger press the fold in place.
You should have a lovely rolled hem now! Repeat those steps all around your work, trimming the frayed edge as you go. From the right side, you should just see tiny stitches along the edge (see picture below).
Hand Rolled Hem: At The Corners
If you’re making a scarf, you will have corners to go around! It’s a little bit different when you come to a corner, so I’ll show you what I do.
Step 1: Stop Close To The Edge
Stop at the corner 1/8″ (3 mm) from the edge after making a long stitch through the fold. You may need to make your stitches closer together as you come to the corner. Pull on the thread to roll the edge.
Step 2: Fold Edge Down
Fold the edge down, and make a vertical stitch through one layer of the fold (don’t go though to the right side).
Step 3: Turn Work
Turn the work so the next edge you’re working on is at the top. Fold the next edge down and make a small stitch right below the raw edge of the fold.
Step 4: Continue With Stitches
Bring your needle up to the fold and make a long stitch through the fold.
Make a few stitches in the pattern and then pull on the thread to roll the hem. You may need to help the corner get into place by hand forming it and finger pressing it.
Then, continue with the stitch pattern until you’ve reached the end of your project!
Press The Finished Hem
When you’re all done, you can press the finished hem to help everything lay flat. Remember to set your iron to the right heat setting for the fabric you’re working with.
This definitely is a more time consuming method of hemming, but is a beautiful option when working with delicate fabric. Once you get the hang of it, it can be a relaxing way to slow down and create a beautiful finish to your project.
Hope you enjoyed this tutorial and maybe it inspired you to try sewing a rolled hem by hand! Thanks for reading and happy sewing 🙂
