In this tutorial I will be showing how to fully line a wool jacket (or coat) with a combination of flat lining and bag lining to make it work with this specific pattern. This is the Daphne Jacket by Vivian Shao Chen and the same pattern that I used for my quilted coat that I made from all my fabric scraps!
I walk through the steps of how to draw out a facing so the main fabric shows on the outside of the collar, sew the lining together to the outer jacket and seamlessly sew in the lining at the sleeve cuffs and hem.
This was the first Daphne Jacket I made out of this gorgeous wool tweed and instead of lining it, the inside seams are bound with bias binding. I found I wasn’t wearing it that often because it’s not quite warm enough as just a single layer and I kept wishing for buttons to close it up. I was a little sad to cover up the pretty bias binding that I spent a while sewing, but at least I have pictures to remember!
The Daphne Jacket pattern actually comes with brief instructions for adding a lining, but not for adding a facing to the collar in the main fabric. The lining would instead show on the outside of the collar and I didn’t want that. I spent a long time trying to figure it all out in my head but finally just went for it!
I also used these same techniques when I lined my wool Thompson Coat by Daughter Judy (photo above) and if you scroll down close to the end of the article you’ll find my notes!
The whole process didn’t take as long as I thought, especially since I had the main jacket ready to go. By sharing the process, I hope that it makes lining a jacket, or a coat, less confusing and more doable – So lets get started!
Drafting the collar facing
The first thing I did was to draw out my facing for the collar at the width that I wanted and extended it down the down the center front. I decided on 4″ and made sure to include seam allowance. This is where a french curve ruler would have come in handy! Instead I made dashed lines at 4″ away from the center front lines, following the curve line, and then connected the dashes.
*After sewing on the collar and lining I realized I could have used the whole width of the neck portion of the pattern piece (the part that extends out past the top of the jacket front piece is the neck portion).
You can see in the photos below the finished line that I drew (first photo) and the red line marks where I would draw the line next time (second photo). I also made a note to include 1/4″ seam allowance when sewing the facing to the lining piece.
Once the facing line was drawn, I cut along that line to split the front pattern piece in two. The piece on the right will be cut out in the main fabric and the piece on the left cut out in the lining fabric.
Cut out the lining
Next up is to cut out the lining for the jacket and the collar/center front facing out of the main fabric. I had just enough wool tweed leftover to cut out the facing but I actually needed to piece together some length at the bottom.
To cut out the lining, you use the same pieces as the main outer jacket, but in your chosen lining fabric. I’m using a woven poly crepe that ended up working great as a lining fabric. Don’t forget to add seam allowance to the front pieces edges and the facing edges that will be sewn together (check out my super professional way of doing this below 🙂 ).
Time to sew
Now the fun part, sewing it all together! The Daphne Jacket instructions have brief steps explaining how to sew the lining shell to the main shell so I mainly referenced those for the sewing steps. The only steps I did differently are the facings, which you’ll see next, and sewing the lining to the cuffs, which I’ll show at a later step.
The first step is sewing the facings to the front pieces right sides together which should end up the same size as the front pattern piece once sewn together. Press the seam away from the center front.
This step is optional, but since I was adding buttons to my jacket, I added interfacing (about 2″ wide) along the entire center front, 1/2″ from the edge. This provides additional structure when sewing on buttons and buttonholes and also helps the center front maintain a straight shape.
Sew the neck and shoulder seams
Following the pattern instructions, I sewed the lining neck seam with right sides together.
Next, sew the lining shoulder seams right sides together, using plenty of pins to help sew around the curves.
Sew lining to the outer jacket
Sew the lining shell to the outer shell right sides together all along the center front and collar (I used the 1/2″ seam allowance stated in the pattern).
Press seam open and then bring the wrong sides of the collar and center front together. I chose to topstitch all along the front edge to keep the lining from rolling to the front.
Sleeve Cuff facing
I wanted to lengthen the jacket sleeves so to keep as much length as possible, I cut a facing for the cuffs about 3.5″ wide and used the pattern piece to measure the length (see photo above). I then sewed the short ends together into a tube and stitched right sides together to the ends of the sleeves of the outer jacket.
*You don’t need a cuff facing, but instead can sew the lining directly to the ends of the sleeves. The lining will need to be shorter so that when it’s turned out, the lining will pull the end of the sleeve towards the wrong side and create a clean finish.
Next up is to figure out how much to cut from the sleeve lining. If you’re following the directions from the pattern, then all you need to do is cut off 3/4″ to nest into the hem of the sleeve.
Since I’m adding a facing, this was the easiest way that my brain and I could figure out how much to cut (without using math 🙂 ):
I put on the jacket sleeve with the facing pushed into the sleeve towards the wrong side and the lining inside the facing. I then put a pin at the cuff through both the main and lining layers (above photo). I then turned the sleeve wrong side out, found where I had placed the pin and marked where the cuff facing ended on the lining. I added 1/2″ seam allowance for when I sew the lining to the sleeve cuff facing (photos below).
I then measured a straight line and cut off the amount I didn’t need at the end of the sleeve. Repeat for the other sleeve.
Sew Sleeve Lining to Cuff
This is where I deviated from the instructions and tried a different method of attaching the lining to the sleeves. This how a traditional, and a little more complicated, bagged out method lining on a coat is done but I was wanting to add length to the sleeves and this seemed like the best way to do it.
A simpler method (which is explained in the instructions) is to nest the sleeve lining into the hem at the cuffs, which is the same way that the bottom hem is done.
*I’ll try to explain in pictures but It may be more helpful to watch this video tutorial from Friday Pattern Company for the Heather Blazer on attaching the sleeve lining to the cuff (starting at 18:52).
With the jacket and both sleeves inside out, slide the lining over the main cuff right sides together and matching side seams. Make sure the sleeves aren’t twisted! Pin all around and then sew together.
Turn the sleeve right side out to make sure everything worked out ok! You can leave the sleeve as is, but I topstitched all around just to keep everything in place. I also liked how it looks like a faux folded hem.
Sew Bottom Hem
For the hem, I stuck with the instructions and used the method written. Cut off 3/4″ of the lining (I chose to cut more off so that the lining ended right in the fold of the hem). Fold and press the hem as the pattern states over the lining and pin in place.
Then edgestitch all around the hem. I also stitched the short section at the ends to keep it from coming unfolded.
To keep the lining attached at the shoulder and help prevent bagginess in the lining, I stitched in the ditch right along the seam line. Thankfully this wool tweed hides everything so you can’t see my stitches from the right side (it’s also covered by the collar).
I then figured out and marked where I wanted my buttons to go, sewed the buttonholes using my automatic buttonhole setting and hand sewed the buttons on. I only had two left of the buttons I used, which works fine for now, but I may go back and add one more later.
Overall I am SO happy with my finished jacket and by adding a lining I know I’ll reach for it more! The lining makes it easier to slip on and off and it’s more comfortable than feeling the wool directly on my skin.
A couple of things I would change if I made another:
- Like I mentioned before I would adjust the facing so that the whole collar is the main fabric at the back of the neck.
- I would adjust the sleeves before attaching the facing so the they taper more at the hem.
- Experiment with a thicker wool to make an even warmer wintery coat.
- Maybe hack a pointed or notched collar for a totally different look?
After lining this jacket, I have more confidence in trying it out on more jacket patterns and I hope by sharing my process it helped you out as well! Thanks for reading!