Do you want to try sewing with knit fabric, but don’t know what pattern to start with? In this article I share my favorite knit sewing patterns that I’ve made and love to wear! If you’re new to sewing with knits, then a t-shirt would be a great place to start! An oversized tee would be even better so you don’t have to worry too much about the fit.
You can always start with a free pattern to get the feel of the process and practice with inexpensive fabric to get started. The first fabric I practiced on was from Walmart which I actually loved it and found it easy to work with! (see photo above) From there you can move on to trying out different styles and fabric to figure out what you like.
Check out my article Tips For Sewing With Knit Fabric for a list of supplies and some advice when sewing with knits – with or without a serger!
Here’s a Table of Contents so you can skip around if you’d like.
How To Pick Knit Fabric For A Project
Check which type of fabric the pattern recommends since most patterns are designed with specific knit fabric types in mind. This doesn’t mean you can’t use other types, but you will most likely get the best results with the recommended fabric. Typically you should use high recovery knits for fitted garments and low recovery knits for loose fitting garments. If you’re using a high recovery knit for a pullover, you may want to size down and vice versa – size up if using low recovery knits for a fitted garment.
There are a few factors you need to keep in mind when picking out fabric like the fiber content, stretch recovery, fabric weight and stretch percentage. Most pattern instructions will do a good job letting you know what fabric will work best, but here is a quick summary of things to consider when choosing knit fabric for a project.
Fiber Content
Looking at the fabric’s fiber content will give you a good idea of how the finished garment will fit. A cotton rayon blend is going to have more drape and be slippery to work with. A high cotton content will give more structure and is generally easier to work with. Linen or hemp cotton blends have great texture and feel amazing on the skin. And of course, any knit with spandex (elastane/lycra) is going to have better stretch recovery.
Stretch Recovery
Stretch recovery is how well knit fabric can go back to it’s original shape after being stretch. Knit fabric with high stretch recovery is usually made with spandex and is great for fitted garments like activewear or underwear. Low recovery knit fabric, like 100% cotton or with low elastane, is better used for looser fit garments, like pullovers and sweaters.
Stretch Percentage
Stretch percentage is the amount of horizontal stretch that a knit fabric has when stretched from a fixed point. All knit fabric stretches simply because of how it is made, but by also taking into consideration the stretch recovery and fiber content, you’ll get a better idea of how a knit fabric is going to perform as a garment.
Fabric Weight
Simply put, fabric weight is how light or heavy a fabric is, and usually measured in grams per square meter (GSM) or ounces per square yard (oz/yd²). So, the higher the number, the heavier the fabric will be and vice versa. Fabric weight needs to be considered when choosing knit fabric for a garment since it can greatly affect the final fit. If you pick a lightweight knit for a low ease fitted camisole (like the Sommar Camisole) chances are you will need to size down to accommodate the extra ease.
Now that you have a good idea of all the elements that make up knit fabric, here are some favorite knit fabric sewing patterns that I’ve made and love!
T-Shirt Patterns
The Stellan Tee by French Navy Now – This was my first t-shirt pattern I made and I think it’s a great pattern for a beginner (it’s also free!). I don’t prefer the fit as much anymore, but the instructions are clear and I love the extra detail of adding the back neckband binding – it gives such a clean, professional finish (bottom two pictures below).
Nora Tee by Sew Lala Patterns – This is the second t-shirt pattern I made and what I’ve landed on as my go-to. It has a somewhat loose fit but without a drop shoulder and it comes with two neckline options. I just recently tried out the v-neck on a sweater hack and it was easier than I thought! The instructions may be a little harder for a beginner to follow but it still follows the basic formula of making a t-shirt. There is also a long sleeve expansion for the Nora Tee for more versatility.
Neve Sweater and Tee by Sew Lala Patterns – This pattern is unique in that it includes 3 views – a half zip sweatshirt, crewneck sweatshirt and t-shirt. I’ve made the sweatshirt once and two t-shirts which have become my favorite oversized tees to wear.
Honeygirl Tee by Paradise Patterns – This tee is unique because it was specifically designed for cotton pointelle fabric – a low recovery knit fabric that behaves a bit more differently than other knits. I love the amount of arm movement I get in the Honeygirl Tee and even though it’s more close-fitting than a boxy tee, I don’t find the sleeves restricting. I’ve made a couple of mods to get my preferred fit which I share in my pattern review of the Honeygirl Tee along with all the versions I’ve made.
Since sewing a t-shirt is a great place to start with knits, I thought I would make a list of some popular ones that I have seen other sewists make!
- Core T-Shirt by Closet Core Patterns – free! (with email subscription)
- Sage Tee by Elbe Textiles
- Jackson Tee by Helen’s Closet
- Fog Tee by Make By TFS
- Hemlock Tee by Grainline Studio – free! (with email subscription)
- Skyline Tee by Sew House Seven
- Orlando T-Shirt by Seamwork Patterns
- Mandy Boat Tee by Tessuti Patterns – free!
- MADE-line Tee by Madswick
- Carrie Crop Top by BF Patterns
Sweatshirt/Pullover Patterns
Wren Fleece by Daughter Judy Patterns – I love this sweatshirt. It’s just so cool with unique style lines and it’s my most worn in the colder months. It’s designed for thick comfy knits and comes in two different size ranges (like all of Daughter Judy patterns). I also like that the cuffs and neckband were intended to be made from the self fabric (the same chosen fabric as the body) so I don’t have to worry about using a stretchier fabric, like a rib knit (although you totally can).
Pine Raglan Sweatshirt by Paradise Patterns – This is such a great, slouchy, cozy, classic raglan sweatshirt and I’ve been wearing mine so much! And like all of Paradise Patterns knit patterns, the instructions are wonderful and recommend stitch length/width for each step. I used matching rib for the neckband, cuffs, and waistband which gives it a nice professional finish (you can also use the self fabric if it has a decent amount of stretch).
All Around Crew by Matchy Matchy Sewing Club – The ultimate oversized cozy pullover. I’ve made this so many times in several different fabrics and the extra ease makes it easy to experiment with fabric types. There’s a sleeve expansion included for a more tapered sleeve with cuff which adds more versatility to the pattern.
I’ve also hacked the All Around Crew into a t-shirt by just leaving off the long sleeves! (see photos below)
Lizabeth Lounge Top by High Country Women – I have made this sweatshirt so many times and lately its been my go-to in the colder months. It has a relaxed fit with oversized drop shoulders and a crewneck that hits just at the right spot. I’ve made two in this amazing wool silk sweater knit (second and third photos) which is actually the same fabric as the coverphoto sample. My favorite has to be the one I made in a quilted jersey – it’s SO cozy! (last photo)
Cardigan Patterns
Marlo Sweater by True Bias – My favorite cardigan pattern! I’ve made several versions and I’ve gradually made modifications with each one. (You can read more about the versions and mods I made in my Marlo Sweater Pattern Review). I love the classic oversized shape of the cardigan and sewing the buttonholes is easier than it seems (hint: use interfacing!).
Brynn Cardigan by True Bias – I feel that I should mention this pattern, even though it isn’t one of my absolute favorites, because I have made it and had a good sewing experience. It’s a fitted cardigan and I sized up to get a *slightly* looser fit but would probably go up one more size. The instructions are clear and straightforward and I like how the pattern comes with several different views for wearing options!
Basics & Loungewear Patterns
You’re going to see Paradise Patterns a lot (ok, only) in this section and for good reason! I basically learned how to sew with knits by making their patterns because of the clear instructions.
Blomma Tank by Paradise Patterns – (You can get this pattern for free when you sign up for their mailing list!) The first knit pattern I ever made was the Blomma Tank and I think it’s a great pattern to start with! Since it’s a tank top you don’t need to worry about sleeves and you get plenty of practice with binding.
I should note that on the striped version, my first version, (below) I cut the bindings out wrong (with the direction of greatest stretch instead of against it) so the bindings don’t lay completely flat.
Sommar Camisole by Paradise Patterns – This is a great basics pattern to wear as a base layer or standalone top on the hottest days and I love that it has a built in shelf bra. I had a bit of a journey trying to get the right combination of fit and fabric, but finally landed on a size up in my favorite organic cotton jersey from Lyrical Fabrics (pictured bottom right).
Honeygirl Lounge Set by Paradise Patterns – The Honeygirl series (lounge set and tee), in collaboration with Lyrical Fabrics, were specifically designed for cotton pointelle knit fabric which is a low recovery knit. I love the pattern and sweet look of pointelle and it’s really helpful to have a pattern that you know it will work for. I’ve made both the top and bottoms (shorts and pants) and I’ve found that I like a size up in the top for more ease (the yellow top pictured below was sadly too small!).
Underwear Patterns
Never thought I would be sewing my own underwear, but here we are! 🙂 They make a great palette cleanser, sew up super quick and are a great way to use up leftover knit fabric. I’ve tried a few different patterns, but below are my two top favorites and a great place to start!
Stevie Knickers by Paper Theory Patterns – This is a free pattern (by subscribing to their newsletter) and a good basic midrise, full coverage underwear pattern. This is the pattern I started with and now my go-to! Just fyi, when you receive the pattern, it doesn’t include instructions but instead head over to Paper Theory’s blog where they have the full tutorial (written and video).
Oh and another fyi, I actually don’t insert the elastic the way Paper Theory does, but I use the method in the Acacia Underwear that I talk about next.
Acacia Underwear by Megan Nielsen Patterns – I love the instructions for this pattern and always use them when making other underwear patterns. The fit is a low rise bikini fit and includes directions for inserting 3 different types of elastic. I prefer the fit of the Stevie Knickers (above) over these but I would recommend this pattern even if just to get the instructions! (They also have an sewalong for the Acacia Underwear on their blog)
Swimwear Patterns
I very briefly ventured into the land of sewing swimwear and while it didn’t work out for me (yet), I still wanted to mention the pattern I tried.
Cowrie Kini by Paradise Patterns – For my first time trying swimwear, this was a good place to start! The instructions were clear and detailed and the sewing process went relatively smoothly (my sewing machine fought with the swimwear fabric). I sewed both views of this pattern and while the fit didn’t work out for me, I still ended up with two complete swimsuits and learned a lot through the process!
Cottesloe Swimsuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns – I’ve purchased this pattern with the fabric ready to go, but haven’t made it yet. I still want to mention it though because the instructions are detailed, it comes with 4 different views and they have a sewalong tutorial to help along the way.
An honorable mention is the Viola Top by Forget Me Not Patterns which is an elevated knit top with beautiful style lines (photo above). This is was one of the first knit tops I made and I was so nervous! The instructions were great though and had video support to help with making all the tucks and folds.
And that’s all! I’ll definitely add more patterns to the list when I find a new favorite (or if I have another go at swimwear). Hopefully you found some patterns you’d like to try and could be your new favorite!
Happy sewing 🙂
